I recently bought a ZIL 131H 6x6 from a Finnish army surplus auction.
Here is some pics:
The ECU will be a Megasquirt 2 with a 3.57 board, coils: 8pcs of 034motorsport high performance coils Injectors are 42lb Bosch green tops, turbocharger: some Master Power, but not quite decided yet(something that is capable of some 220-350hp) and the selection between internal/external wastegate lays in the hands of our forums users by a vote 8)
Managed to find some time to cut and tack weld the "headers".
This was looking great, util it was the time to pull it out for welding. The V-band joint was a bit too much inside the frame and the long part wouldn't of come out without taking the winches drives haft away and I didn't have much interest for that so decided to remake some of it and put the v-band to another place.
The pipe is now tack welded with mig and waiting for tig welding.
I made some restoration and service. I took the oil cleaner/filter apart and cleaned it and replaced the o-rings. I had a little backfire with the lower water hose as my plan was to take it a bit closer to the radiator to have some space for the exhaust collector pipes. I couldn't move it front enough, but managed to angle it differently. However, the hose was too close to the exhaust pipe that I had to put some heat protective material over the hose and will also put some on the exhaust pipe. It might be that I'll have to make a new lower hose from aluminum if there will be problems. Live and learn I'll post some pics of that later when I will install the pipework permanently.
The oil filter rotor housing had a nice 3-4mm thick layer of shit. I put all of the filter components in an ultrasonic bath, but the shit was so dense, it just got a little softer so I had to scrape it off wit a plastic spatula.
I also learned the way the oil circulates in this sucker.
Filter neck and the thrust bearing
Rotating mechanism: Oil spray
I learned that the oil enters from the upper holes and leaves from the lower holes.
After 12mins in ultrasonic bath
And the restoration: Fosfating and VHT Engine Enamel
I noticed that in the ZIL English repair manual I downloaded shows a different style oil filtering system with a separate coarse filtering circulation which isn't the case with this one.
I guess I should get a centrifugal cleaning system to my Mustang as well because the filtering capacity is outstanding (as little as 1micron) as I learned some more!!
I received the trigger wheel from the laser cutter and instantaneously took it and the the distributor to my machinist, gave him brief instructions and at the next day I collected it and it was perfect as his work usually is. I then spoiled the work as I drilled and tapped the original hole where the coil charger wire was. I remembered the sensors thread pitch incorrectly and tapped the hole with a M12x1,25mm tap, and of course with out checking it first. Obviously the sensor has a M12x1,0mm thread and because of that, a gigantic dick appeared in my forehead...
Today I got to a hardware store and got myself a correct tap and thought I could try 'fixing' the threads already knowing it wouldn't work and obviously it didn't. So now I must weld the hole shut and re-drill and tap with correct thread. I will also mill some material away from the outside of the original wire fitting boss to make a better place for the locking nut. At the original state, the boss is too high and I would have to install the locking nut inside the 'trigger housing' (formerly known as distributor, haha).
Then I made the oil return where the fuel pump used to be and gave the exhaust tubes some heat paint. Motip in the two pipes and VHT in the collector as I ran out of Motip. I must say that there will be no more Motip as VHT covers the surface with much less paint!
Didn't yet weld the trigger housing as I didn't feel like it. But I managed to make some kind of down pipe. I'll have to make a small adjustment as there is now way too big gap in the seam of last elbow because I thought I cut the pipe straight
The clutch linkage might of caused an interference problem, but luckily I tested it and I had to turn the pipe that passes it a bit just in case the welding causes some small warping in the wrong direction.
I managed to do something. Finally. I attached the Volvo flange attachment type idle valve to the TPI throttle body as the original was stuck and didn't want to buy a new solenoid for it. It would of been easier and 'cheaper'
I milled the surfaces so I don't need to put any gaskets between the throttle, manifold and IAC. Just a hint of Loctite 510.
Today I made the oil feed for turbo, assembled the oil filter (red goo is RedLine assembly lube) and trigger shaft to the trigger housing. Then I installed the intake manifold, oil filter and distributor/trigger stuff to the engine.
jeemu kirjoitti:This project has balls. We will see how long those asbestos cylinder gaskets fly away
Yeah, and if this noble machine seems to leak oil, it's not that! It's TESTOSTERONE
Too much time has passed, again!! However, I managed to make some time to start with the IC and charge pipes. I modified a water/air IC by turning the other tank around as it would of been practically impossible to make it fit with the inlet/outlet facing the same direction. I welded some flat bars to both ends and the IC is now mounted with some rubber bushings. With the IC in place, I saw that the distance between the compressor and IC inlet silicone was so small that I decided to make the first part of the charge piping by welding it directly to the c/housing. That way I managed to avoid two possible leak spots Sorry about the pics
I guess I'll be making a heat shield that installs to the DP to minimize the heat load to the IC. I'm also wondering getting the pipework powder coated. But we'll see if I find that "necessary".
Today I managed to complete the intake pipework. At first I was about to route the pipe from IC to throttle from behind of the DP, but that was impossible due to the bonnets hinge. I learned that after I cut and tack welded the pipe. So I had to use my brain again and thought that the pipe will go beneath the DP. Aftermath is a shorter charge pipe and perhaps even a 'cleaner' outcome... Negative thing is that the pipe goes pretty close to the DP so extra heat insulation is a must there too.
IAT will be mounted to the cabin side and a Synapse BOV on top of the throttle body where from it's easy to make the recirculation pipework.
A lot has happened since the last update! The engine bay is now pretty much done, so is the modification of the other fuel tank. Also EMS wire loom is in place and all of the electrics are now generally done.
It was quite hard to get such cable that would handle submersible installation in gasoline. Luckily I mentioned that to my friend and he brought me some PTFE wiring and got the thing done and now the mind is peaceful
I had to grind some material away from the thermostat housing to make more space for the fuel hose that connects the rails in the front. Didn't want any scrubbing to happen.
It also seems that it's autumn again as it has been raining a lot and had to dig a very insufficient shelter
I installed an E-Vac Scavenger kit in the DP, cleaned the threads of the O2 bung and scavenger bung as well and wrapped the whole thing with heat insulation. Then I made the exhaust pipe and put a cat converter in it, because this is a GREEN ZIL
Then the electric system. I made the wire loom so that all sensor and ignition wiring is covered with tinned copper braid and earthed from the ECU end to reduce any interferences. Aand because all of the essential wiring was braided in the first place, I thought I didn't want to do it with inferior shielding than the original
DP with some heat insulation.
Pull switches for coils and injectors for that original look. It's a shame I didn't manage to get them with longer knobs
Fuel tank ready for installation
Connector for the position sensor with the braid connected over to take the shield as long as possible to reduce any interferences to the signal. Might be an overkill for a HALL sensor...
AMP Junior Timer internals with wire seals
Here is the finished wire loom. Looks like Predators hair... Overall, it took about fifteen hours to complete the wiring
I made the coil wires separately because if it would be necessary to replace a coil in some dark forest the replacement would be easier due to the extra length in each fire rather than having them in single loom and everything cut to length. Maybe an overkill too, but did it because I could
As we went through the systems checks everything looked OK until we started to crank the engine to see the signal from position sensor. And there was none and the ecu didn't accept the 8-1 trigger wheel running cam speed. After checking that that really was the case it wasn't supported, I decided to 'edit' the original one. Some mods were needed inside the ecu to be able to use the HALL sensor. After everything, the beautiful sight of a perfect triggering signal in the laptop screen!!
Then to the fuel system. We turned the pump on and there were some major leakages that were fixed by modding the other fuel rail just a bit (one injector didn't sit properly) and replaced one hose from that temporary fuel setup we had to make due to postal delay with the right stuff.
And now. IT'S ALIVE!!!
After the first start we checked the timing with a timing lamp and seems there is a bit of scattering due the slack in the distributor gear, but this was expected. It was pretty hard to see the timing pointer, because someone installed a turbo in the way...
With the first start, injector setting was wrong and the engine was "running" with some 4 cylinders.
After making some changes the running turned better even though the 'lottopurkki' (=Lottery can) gave output only for three channels (the ones we made) and the original output didn't fire the coils. But that's why there is many cylinders so that all don't need to run
I must say that I feel great after seeing my creation alive and the only smoke was from the breather and exhaust pipe. There is still some things to do, such as the final fuel system, modding the other tank and making the coolant circulation for the water/air IC. And of course the removable sauna on top of the scaffold
Had some oil leaks from between the intake manifold and block. It's flooding... Also it seemed that the oil return wasn't working properly, but it turned out that I had just put too thin oil to the cleaner. What a mess with the BOV spraying it all over.
Views from the darkness:
I made some work with the fuel system. I fabricated a swirl pot and made a plate where everything is installed. Must say that this is the last time I use industrial fittings with performance stuff. Too much work there....
Some oil..., something Russian that is :
Fuel system fabricating:
Modifying AN -6
Previous fitted to a 1/4" bung
Shortening of an AN-6 - 1/4" adapter
Had to install the thread socket inside because there would otherwise be some clearance issues in the other end of the box where everything is installed.
Opening the socket due to part surface installation
Return sockets tack welded
I painted the fuel box from inside to get it lighter, as black walls made it pretty dark from the inside to operate. The paint I used is some CRC paint that does it all: ground, prevents rust and final/top finish, a real deal for a hasty guys I also made some restoration with the main breather can/oil fill thingy. Then I had to make new gaskets for the intake manifold as I was stupid and went and installed "originals" that are some silicone rubber. Not very compatible with boost. Will install the new ones tomorrow.
Thread cleaning after welding.
Marked the holes for drilling/machining
Pretty much the same color as the Russian tanks are from inside, perfect
Today I got the registration plates to the MAGNUM ZIL after last weeks inspection for registration. Damn it feels great! During the past two weeks I've been quite busy, especially before the inspection as I had tons of "small and fast" things to do. I made the water lines for the intercooler, reverse light switch that automatically switches the reverse light on (legal requisition), rear fender etc. to get it street legal. We visited the Military surplus auction and during the way home, the oil from the filter and badly sitting silicone ment N/A ride home so I had to modify the throttle body a bit...
Water fitting for the IC, made from a 90° piece.
Reverse switch braket
Sinking the 'thread rivets' head to the bracket.
Finished and clears the original floor mats
Being presented at the military surplus auction, plenty of interest and one guy said that he would have his Ural modified by us, what a magnificent project that would be!
I will be taking some video and more pics now that everything is in it's place and functioning and not being so busy now that the thing is done, for now I will be making some throttle linkage modification also as there is a nasty step when starting to push the pedal and it's quite interesting to drive as it's hard to push just a bit and usually the throttle opens some 30deg when given too fast too much force after trying to gently push the pedal...
Made some tuning today and rised the boost from 0,4 to 0,6bar. Before I filled the tank, we changed the injection setting as the ecu previously fired all injectors at once which isn't the most fuel economic way to do it. Now it fires them in two banks. The main problem though is that we only have 2 injector outputs and therefore we are planning to upgrade to MS3 so that we will be able to get full sequential injection and ignition. For this I'll be needing to remake the injector harness. Last tankful I drove, the consumption was some 104l/100km. Sounds a lot, but it contained one full day in the woods and she ran the whole day. So I would say it was more or less LPH thing due to slow speed and lots of idling nature driving. Now I'm looking forward seeing how todays tuning affected. We'll be going for higher boost shortly, some 0,9bar. Today we rised it from 0,4-0,6bar and the increase of torque was "pretty nice".